Castello Banfi

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Banfi will always have a special place in my heart. It was the first winery my husband and I visited on our honeymoon. Leaving the density and noise of Rome, we drove north a few hours into the picturesque hills of Montalcino. The icon of the area, Brunello di Montalcino, is now well known in the wine world, largely due to Banfi.

Basics of Brunello di Montalcino

Brunello is one of many Sangiovese wines produced in central Italy. There are several distinguishing factors.

• • Made using a clone of Sangiovese Grosso, discovered in the 1840s by Clemente Santi
  • Minimum aging of 4 years before released for sale

Banfi is a giant operation compared to the typical Montalcino winery. It’s owned by the Marianis, an American family, who made their fortune importing Riunite Lambrusco. That, of course, will rub some the wrong way. Other criticisms include their size and use of technology, and that they commercialized the area to a higher degree. But the area is still rural and quaint. It in no way feels overrun by tourists. They also have been accused of blending other grapes into their Brunello, although this is incredibly difficult to prove. Probably the most deserving criticism is over using bulldozers to rearrange hills. The argument is that it changes the natural characteristics of the soil that makes Montalcino what it is.

I knew all of this before we visited, and it had absolutely no effect on my enjoyment of Banfi. With the pristine views and the beauty of the castle, just arriving at Castello Banfi was an experience. We started off with a five course lunch with wine pairing in their restaurant. The menu was a blend of local specialities, like pinci (or picci), and more modern dishes. The wines included the Castello Banfi Brunello di Montalcino and Summus, a Sangiovese, Cabernet, and Syrah blend.

Next up was a tour of the winery and cellars. Highlights include an actual cork tree. Many DOCs (denominazione di origine controllata) require natural cork to be used. We followed the tour with a tasting in the enoteca. By this time we were absolutely infatuated by the place and needed no prodding to purchase a 1995 Poggio all’Oro to take back with us. Poggio all’Oro is a Brunello from a single vineyard, La Pieve. It has skin contact for a couple weeks in stainless steel and wood tanks, and is followed by 30 months of aging in barriques and 12 to 18 months in the bottle before release. We tasted it there and were surprised by the structure and power in a wine of that age. We brought the bottle out later that year for my birthday dinner, and in a more neutral environment it was evident that it was a little passed its prime. But after a long decanting period, we really enjoyed it.

We also selected the 2013 Excelsus, a 60/40 Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon blend. The two varietals are vinified separately in stainless steel and wood tanks with variable maceration (8 days for Merlot and 18 days for Cabernet). Malolactic fermentation follows alcoholic fermentation in barriques. The varietals age separately for 12 months, are blended, and aged another 8 months. Targeted drink date is between 2019 and 2033.

There is definitely more to Montalcino than Banfi, but a trip to the home of Brunello without a Banfi visit would be incomplete.